WARNING
This shrink wrap can burn. If heat is applied incorrectly, shrink wrap can ignite into open flame. It can also drop down on to other combustible material and cause secondary ignition and fire. If at any time you observe the shrink wrap on fire, immediately stop what you are doing and carefully inspect the area where you are working for a possible fire. Keep a fire extinguisher available at all times.  Inspect the cover for up to 30 minutes after shrinkwrapping to look for hot spots."

SHRINKWRAPPING TIPS
Shrinkwrapping is a series of logical steps with a bunch of common sense thrown in the mix. A professional job can be accomplished by following the tips listed below.

1. Always survey the items to be covered before beginning the shrinkwrapping job. Note any current damage with either a written check list or digital camera. Also look for hazards that could affect the shrinkwrappers or the shrinkwrap. These could be sharp objects, potential slip areas, combustible materials or fumes. Have the proper equipment for completing the job before starting. This means all necessary personal safety equipment, ladders, manlifts, fire extinguishers, etc. Remember, unless specifically stated as being "Flame Retardant" on the label of the shrinkwrap: "This shrink wrap can burn. If heat is applied incorrectly, shrink wrap can ignite into open flame. It can also drop down on to other combustible material and cause secondary ignition and fire. If at any time you observe the shrink wrap on fire, immediately stop what you are doing and carefully inspect the area where you are working for a possible fire. Keep a fire extinguisher available at all times."
    
2. Measure all areas to be covered to assure that you have the proper size shrinkwrap to cover the project in the fewest number of pieces. It is much easier to cover large objects in one piece of shrinkwrap. Use the thickest material possible on larger objects. If it is necessary to use two pieces of shrinkwrap then there must be an allowance of 8-10 inches of overlap where the pieces will be joined. Flame retardant shrinkwrap is available for roofs, scaffolding, machinery, boats, etc.
    
3. Always have an attachment plan ready before taking the shrinkwrap out of the box. Shrinkwrap must be attached firmly around the entire perimeter for it to become a tight durable cover. It can be attached by woven cord strapping, tape, steel cabling or furring strips—depending on the job.
    
4. Keep the shrinkwrap clean and folded as long as possible during installation. Shrinkwrap headwelds to itself much better when it is clean. Once the shrinkwrap is unfolded it is much harder to manage in case the wind comes up. NEVER SHRINKWRAP IN A WIND OVER 10 MPH!
    
5. Use Common sense. Don't walk on the shrinkwrap when it is wet, don't shrinkwrap if you can smell flammable aromas, use all safety equipment necessary. Keep a fire watch at all times and inspect the job for one hour after the shrinkwrap is heated to make sure there are no hot spots. Never shrinkwrap over fuel vents, air vents on roofs, roof drains, air conditioning units, etc. Never drink alcohol before shrinkwrapping.
    
6. Tight Shrinkwrap Covers are the most durable covers. Shrinkwrap works much better than poly tarps because it does not move or chafe when properly applied and heated. The tighter the cover is—the better. Again, firm attachment points around the entire perimeter of the shrinkwrap are necessary to ensure the shrink tightness comes from shrinking the wrap itself rather than having the edges pull in.

IS IT HARD TO SHRINKWRAP?
No, it isn't difficult to shrinkwrap. We suggest watching the Allstar's  "Wrap it up Video" at least twice before shrinkwrapping and also evaluate the weather if you will be shrinkwrapping outside. Clear days with light winds make the covering process go much quicker and you will end up with a much more durable cover. Shrinkwrapping is a series of logical steps mixed with common sense.

WHAT ABOUT MOISTURE UNDER THE COVER?
Every shrinkwrap cover must be ventilated to eliminate moisture and condensation under the cover. Our self-adhesive vent allows cross flow ventilation throughout the cover minimizing chances of excess moisture and mildew. The number of vents will vary according to what you are covering, but a minimum would be 3 vents for runabouts and up to 8+ vents for boats 34 foot and above. Cabins and seat cushions should also be left open to help stimulate ventilation.

SUPPORT STRUCTURES?
Support structures are very important under shrinkwrap storage covers. Allstar's "Wrap it up Video" will guide you step-by-step in the construction of a woven cord strapping and wooden upright support system. These simple, yet effective supports give the cover enough slope and strength so that snow and rain will run off.

CAN THE HEAT TOOL CAUSE DAMAGE?
The propane fired heat tools used in shrinkwrapping must be used in accordance with the directions in the Allstar's "Wrap it up Video". Always remember Safety First!! The video will explain how heat is swept over the cover, almost like spray painting, and is never left on one spot long enough to damage vinyl graphics, paint, gelcoat, wood, etc. In fact, the shrinkwrap will become thin and holes will form before enough heat is transferred to damage what is being covered. If the shrinkwrap should get a burn hole, and it appears the wrap is stuck to the product, just let the wrap cool and it will come loose by itself.

HOW DO I REPAIR TEAR OR BURN HOLES IN THE COVER?
First, holes are not rare in shrinkwrap covers. It is very easy to puncture the material before it is shrunk, conversely, it is easy to repair holes. If it is a small hole a piece of heat shrink tape will fix it quickly. If it is a larger hole, a scrap of shrinkwrap approximately 2" larger than the hole may be taped on the original cover and lightly shrunk.

IS THERE A WAY I CAN GET INTO THE COVER DURING THE STORAGE SEASON?
Yes! Allstar offers both a 30"X36" and 30"X48" zipper access door. These are installed, by taping them onto the shrinkwrap, after the cover is completely shrunk.

WHAT OTHER HARDWARE DO I NEED TO SHRINKWRAP BESIDES A HEAT TOOL?
Our shrinkwrapping program is very simple, but you will need a  Tensioning Tool, Film Cutting Knife,  Long Cuff Safety Gloves, and Safety Glasses along with a Heat Tool. Equipment the installer needs to provide include ladders to fit the job, 20lb. propane tank, hand saw, jack knife, Arrow T-50 Stapler, and a 25' tape measure. Of course, you will need shrinkwrap to fit the job, strapping, buckles, tape and vents.

HOW DO I MEASURE AND FIND THE RIGHT SIZE SHRINKWRAP FOR MY PRODUCTS?
This is very easy to do. Measure from the center of your product, at the highest point, over the side and down at least 8" below where you want the cover to go (for example, on a powerboat with arch measure from the center of the arch down below the rubrail). Now double that figure and
add on 1' for the shrinkwrap which will be tucked under the perimeter band.

CAN I GET TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE?
Yes, Allstar, Inc. may be contacted at (860) 379-9626, from 9:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. Monday through Friday, Eastern Standard Time, when you have questions or comments about shrinkwrapping. They can guide you through the basics of wrapping or help with that "special" job.

IF I AM TRANSPORTING A PRODUCT, SHOULD I ATTACH IT DIFFERENTLY?
Definitely. Transportation covers need no support structure, just a couple of straps running fore and aft under the shrinkwrap to give it support as it travels down the road. Also, a very good way of holding the shrinkwrap to the product is by taping it on using our Preservation Tape. This tape leaves no adhesive residue and keeps wind from blowing under the cover which may cause chafing or loss of the shrinkwrap.

WHAT COLOR SHRINKWRAP SHOULD I USE? IS THERE A DIFFERENCE?
Shrinkwrap comes in blue, white & clear. If you live in a northern climate blue wrap absorbs heat and allows snow and ice to fall from the cover. For southern climates white reflects heat and keeps covered boats cooler. Clear shrinkwrap should only be used on boats during the winter months. It absorbs a lot of heat which can damage boat interiors. If you use clear wrap always over ventilate. Also, if you are showing boats or working on them white should be the color of choice. It provides an excellent shadow free lighting and perfect color rendition.

TAPING ON COVERS
Installing a shrinkwrap transportation cover using 4" hull tape to hold the cover onto the boat is a quick, durable, and cost effective method of protection.

1. Pad sharp objects on the boat and also all items such as vinyl interiors that could be damaged by excessive heat. Generally, one layer of shrinkwrap over vinyl will be sufficient. Place anti-chafe tape on all areas that may be abraded, including vinyl graphics. Tape over the fuel vent to prevent fumes from escaping.
    
2. Determine how far down the hull sides the shrinkwrap will come. The shrinkwrap should cover all vinyl graphics so that the hull tape will not adhere to them.
    
3. This step is very important—the hull must have all wax and mold releases removed from the hull where the hull tape will attach to it. Use rags and isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) to clean a swath along the hull at least 8 inches wide. This will assure proper adhesion of the tape.
    
4. Install a simple support structure by running ¥" strapping from one cleat on the stern through the cleat, or to the top of the rail, on the opposite side at the bow, then through the other bow cleat, or rail, to the opposite stern cleat. You should have a criss-cross pattern. Pull it tight so that it will support the plastic. This should be done on all boats and gives extra support in case the covers are left on for extended periods.
    
5. Pull the shrinkwrap over the boat making sure it doesn't touch the ground. Static electricity will allow the shrinkwrap to pick up dirt and grime and will affect the shrinking and adhesion of the tape.
    
6. Once you have enough wrap at the bow, tape it below the rubrail on each side to hold it in position. Now cut the wrap at the stern 4"-6" below where it will be taped on. Trim the wrap in the center of the transom and tape it to the hull. Now that the material is taped fore and aft it will be held in place while it is trimmed completely around the hull using an Allstar Film Cutting Knife. Use of this tool will give a straight line around the hull making it much easier to tape, plus the knife cannot damage the hull or cut employees.
    
7. Before you begin taping the shrinkwrap to the hull form the pleats at each side of the windshield. Fold them towards the stern, pull the plastic until it is taut, and tape the wrap to the hull at that point.
    
8. Now the entire cover can be taped to the hull using 4" hull tape. Start at the bow or stern and tape as closely as possible so that the tape is halfway on the shrinkwrap and half on the hull. Rub the tape to eliminate air bubbles under it. Always cut the tape rather than tearing it—rough edges allow moisture under the tape which kills the adhesive. Make sure the tape is sticking tightly to the hull around the transom and swim platform.
    
9. The cover is ready to be completely shrunk after step 8. Begin at the bottom of the cover at the bow or stern using the heat tool as though you are spray painting. Note: this is not flame retardant shrinkwrap. It can burn. Keep a fire extinguisher nearby at all times. Shrink up to the rubrail around the entire boat before shrinking the top. This will pull the excess out of the top and provide a much tighter cover.
    
10. After the cover is totally heated go around the boat and repair any holes with hull tape.

The most important steps are:

1. Padding sharp objects, cleaning the hull of all waxes and release agents, and taping the fuel vent.
2. Cutting the shrinkwrap in a straight line around the hull.
3. Applying the tape equally to the wrap and hull, then rubbing the tape to eliminate air bubbles under the tape and help assure complete adhesion.
4. Running ¥" strapping fore and aft to make a simple, strong support structure for the wrap to rest on.

WRAPPING INSTRUCTIONS
The purpose of using shrinkwrap in the marine field is twofold:

1. To enclose boats for protection them from the elements when they are stored outside during the offseason.
    
2. To protect new boats as they are transported from the builder to the dealer. Each of these applications has a different method of installation of the shrinkwrap. The only common denominator is that each uses a piece of shrinkwrap as the cover and a heat tool to shrink it.

Shrinkwrap
(#4 LDPE) The shrinkwrap itself is a 6 or 7 mil, low density polyethylene (#4 for recycling purposes). What makes this material different than construction plastic sheeting is that it contains shrinking resins, UV inhibitors, anti-brittling compounds, and strengtheners so that it will not rip or tear. Allstar uses only virgin resin material in our premium shrinkwrap. Please note that this shrinkwrap does not contain any flame retardant compounds. It is possible for the shrinkwrap to burn. Keep a fire extinguisher nearby at all times.

Materials needed to shrinkwrap a boat for outside winter storage:

1. Shrinkwrap
2. Woven cord strapping
3. 2" x 4" boards
4. Heat tool
5. Heat shrink tape
6. Vents
7. Hand saw
8. Measuring tape
9. Safety gloves and glasses
10. Fire Extinguisher
11. Stapler
12. End Caps for each end of wooden uprights

Materials needed to shrinkwrap a boat for transportation to the dealer:

1. Shrinkwrap
2. Hull or preservation tape and mineral spirits to remove wax.
3. Heat tool
4. Vents
5. Fire Extinguisher

Steps in covering a boat for outside storage:

1. Go around the boat to determine if there are any unusual features to the vessel. These would be outriggers, trolling motors, antennas, flimsy windshields etc. These items must be noted so they can be padded, or protected before the shrinkwrap is laid over the boat.
    
2. At the same time look for, and note, any damage that has already occurred to the boat. Owners will blame any imperfection on the shrinkwrap crew.
    
3. Support Structure - Whenever a boat is stored outside with a shrinkwrap cover it must have a support structure under the cover, with wooden uprights, to keep rain or snow from sitting on the cover and causing damage to the boat.
    
4. The first step in building a support structure is to run woven cord strapping lengthwise on the boat from the highest point at the bow, such as the top of the rails or lifelines, to the highest point at the stern, which would be the stern rails or cleats on top of the toe rail. This strapping must be pulled extremely tight as it is the beginning of the support structure. Once this strap is pulled tight a tape measure is used to measure from the deck, directly behind the windshield in the cockpit, to the top of the windshield. 9" must be added to this figure and a 2" x 4" cut to this length (on wide beam boats you may need a taller 2" X 4"). This will be one of the wooden uprights that will give the cover enough slope to shed rain or snow from it.
    
5. This previously cut board is then forced upright under the rope/strap going lengthwise on the boat. It should end up vertically just behind the windshield in the cockpit. Now a strap must be run laterally (side to side) on the vessel so that it runs over the top of the 2" x 4" and makes a cross with the lengthwise rope/strap. These can be tied to the top of the rails, cleats, trailer, or they can go around the entire boat. This strap must be pulled tight as it is part of the support structure and will help keep weight off the windshield.
    
6. Once that is completed, the foredeck and cockpit are measured and wooden uprights 6" taller than where the fore and aft strap normally lies are inserted under the rope/strap. Again, a cross strap is run over the top of each of these boards. These uprights must be no farther than 7' apart. The number of uprights will vary depending on boat length.
    
7. The tops and bottoms of each upright must be covered with Allstar's End Caps to keep them from protruding through the cover or having the base slip during the winter months.
    
8. This is now a good time to pad all sharp objects such as windshield corners, cleats, antenna bases, etc. TAPE THE FUEL VENTS AT THIS TIME! Call the boat builder if the vents can't be found. This is very important to eliminate explosions. Again, this is not flame retardant shrinkwrap. It can burn. Keep a fire extinguisher near you at all times.
    
9. Measuring to determine shrinkwrap size and installing perimeter band - A tape measure is used to measure from the top of the upright behind the windshield to however far down the side of the boat you wish to install the cover. This number is then doubled and it will give you the size of shrinkwrap you will need. (standard shrinkwrap sizes are from 12'-40'). You must also allow 6" of additional shrinkwrap length on each side of the boat to tuck around and under the perimeter band going around the boat.
    
10. The next step is to install a perimeter band around the boat which is used to hold the shrinkwrap on the boat. There are several method of attaching this band around the boat. One is to run a rope/strap through the bow eye, around the boat, and through the two eyes on the stern of the boat. This rope/strap is then pulled tight. A Second method is to tie loops, made of rope/strap, down from the cleats or stanchion bases to the level that you wish to cover the boat. These should be hung every 3'-4' around the hull. The perimeter band is run through these loops and pulled very tight. A Third method is to use the Allstar's "stick-ups" which are suction cups stuck around the hull of the boat, every 3'-4', which hold the perimeter band in place while you are tucking the shrinkwrap over and under it. A Fourth method is to tape the shrinkwrap to the hull with hull/preservation tape, thereby eliminating any perimeter band at all. This is the most common way for boat builders to attach covers.
     
11. Installing the shrinkwrap - Once the support structure is in place, all sharp objects padded, and the perimeter band is attached—or tape is going to be used in place of the perimeter band, the shrinkwrap can be put on.
     
12. The proper size shrinkwrap is now put on a roller at the stern of the boat. Coming from the flat stern allows the wrap to be pulled over the boat much easier than coming from the bow end. The wrap is pulled over the boat making sure that there is enough extra at the bow and stern to tuck around and under the perimeter band. This will help hold it in place in case the wind is blowing.
     
13. After the wrap has been pulled over and tucked at the ends the rest of the wrap can be unfolded. There will be pleats of excess wrap at the windshield corners, corners of the stern, and as the wrap goes from the bow aft. The pleats at the windshield must be folded to the rear of the boat and tucked over and under the perimeter band, or taped in place if there is no perimeter band. This will assure that there is enough wrap fore and aft and side to side.
     
14. Now the rest of the wrap can be cut 6" below the perimeter band, or just taped onto the boat, if there is no perimeter band. Once this is done all of the material can be tucked around and under the band or taped around the hull.
     
15. After being tucked around and under the perimeter band the heat tool is used to apply heat directly above the band which heat welds the outside of the wrap and the piece tucked under the band. As you come to pleats or seams these are heat welded at the same time.
     
16. When the entire perimeter and pleats and seams have been welded it is time for bands that go from the perimeter band under the boat to the band on the other side. These keep the material and perimeter band from rising as the shrinkwrap shrinks. If these bands are not used there is also a chance that snow or rain sitting on the cover could raise the perimeter band and allow these to pool up in the cover. This could cause tremendous amounts of damage to the boat.
     
17. Shrinking the cover - Once the bands are on it is time to begin shrinking the entire cover. It is important to first shrink around the boat from the perimeter band, or taped line, to the rub rail on the boat. Using the heat tool is very similar to spray painting. The trigger is pulled as you move the heat back and forth, in a horizontal fashion, across the shrinkwrap. You should begin at the lowest part of the cover and let the rising heat work for you to start warming the plastic. The ultimate goal is to have a tight top that will repel snow and rain, and this method will pull additional slack out of the top so that it will not take as much shrinking when you are ready for that area.
     
18. The rest of the cover can be shrunk once you have completed heating to the rub rail. Always start at one end of the boat and work in the same direction around the boat. This will give a tighter, more protective cover. Again, the ultimate goal is a tight, wrinkle free cover that will shed snow and ice.
     
19. Hole patrol and venting - It is very important to look over the entire cover for holes, weak spots, or pleats that did not get heated enough. These should be taped with heat shrink tape. Once the tape is applied it should be warmed slightly to heat the adhesives and then rubbed to remove any air bubbles. If a hole is bigger than the tape that you have, then a piece of shrinkwrap 3" bigger than the hole should be placed over the hole and taped around the entire edge area. Heat the tape with the heat tool and then shrink the patch. It will be as good as new.
     
20. The last step is to ventilate the cover with Allstar's self adhesive vents. There should be anywhere from 3 to 10 vents attached to the most vertical surfaces around the boat. By putting the vents around the boat you are causing cross flow ventilation to occur. This will help eliminate any moisture and mildew buildup.

Taping on covers for boat builders and dealers

1. Most builders tape their shrinkwrap covers on and they provide no support system on the top of the boats. These covers are designed only for transportation and not for protection against snow load or heavy rain damage. Some dealers in southern states also use this method.
    
2. It is very simple to cover boats this way. First de-wax the hull with mineral spirits where the tape will adhere to it. All sharp objects are padded, the shrinkwrap is laid over the boat, the shrinkwrap is trimmed and taped all around the hull, then heat is applied to shrink it. Following that the OEM's usually patch holes and sometime vent the covers.

MACHINERY COVERING TIPS
SAFETY FIRST!

• Always watch the Allstar's training video before shrinking any objects.
• Never point the shrink gun at yourself or anyone else.
• Always wear safety gloves, long sleeves, long pants and safety glasses.
• Do not use the shrink gun while under the influence of drugs or alcohol.

Allstar's shrink gun is a propane fired heat tool that works extremely well for shrinking plastic sheeting, but it must be used properly to eliminate accidents. The shrinkwrap you will be heating is not flame retardant unless it was specifically ordered as such. Shrinkwrap can burn. Keep a fire extinguisher nearby at all times.

1. To begin using the shrink gun first hook the adjustable regulator to the 20 lb. Propane tank making sure the connection is tight. Turn the knurled knob on the regulator clockwise until it stops—then back it off one complete turn.
    
2. Attach the hose connector to the regulator, again making sure the connection is tight. Next connect the shrink gun heat tool to the opposite end of the hose and tighten.
    
3. Before turning on the propane make sure all valves on the heat tool are turned off. The valve nearest the hose is the main gas inlet and the valve nearest the head of the heat tool is for adjusting the pilot light.
    
4. Turn on the propane at the tank, then open the main gas valve which is closest to the hose connection. Now the pilot valve can be opened approximately one quarter of a turn—or until you hear gas escaping. Do not open the pilot valve too far or the shrink gun will not ignite. With the pilot valve opened push on the piezo electric ignitor located on the heat tool head. There will now be a pilot light that burns continuously. Adjust it so that the flame is about 3" beyond the head of the shrink gun.
    
5. To adjust the flame for actual wrapping, squeeze on the trigger located on the handle. For close up work, such as the heat weld around the base of the object you are covering, you will not need the maximum amount of btu's. Place a finger under the trigger to help keep from squeezing the trigger completely. When you are ready for shrinkwrapping the larger sections the maximum amount of heat may be used (see Allstar's training video for shrinking methods).

Logical steps in shrinkwrapping

Mast Up
Covering a sailboat mast up can seem like a very daunting proposition at first, but it takes only a couple of more steps than shrinkwrapping a mast down boat. Follow the directions below and watching the training video at least twice will minimize any problems.